Still smell exhaust, so probably not successful. Valve cover gasket leaking replacedĮngine was spiking when stopped, causing stalls. Contacts cleaned prior to replacement, which helped, but problems still intermittent. Pipe and two gaskets replaced.Ģnd catalytic converter and A pipe cracked (no code, only audible exhaust leak) ($900) VTCS solenoid failed resulting in P1569 code. Temp gauge above nominal range, thermostat replacedĬracked exhaust pipe caused leak/noise. Rough idle, plugs/wires/coils replaced (coils as PM as are known problem on this vehicle) Based on the code, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs.Ĭracked intake hose, ~$60+$90 (1hr) labor+tax Throttle body hose cracked, which threw a CEL code.Ĭar had a misfire and threw a cel code. Replaced radiator, hoses, and thermostat. Radiator developed a hairline crack and was slowly leaking coolant. Replace timing belt replace coils/wires/plugs Pre-catalytic converter had to be replaced I opted to also replace thermostat/gaskets and all hoses for additional $280. Mechanic said was a pin-hole leak in the radiator and needed replacement for $300. Jay's Auto in Torrance damaged engine bolts while replacing valve cover gasket Air filterĬar temperature was a notch higher than usual at a stop light. Would not start even with a full battery after not being used for a few weeks.īrakes (rear), Timing belt, water pump, belts, oil pan gasket, rotate tires. Caused rough running, stalling, loss of power. Temporarily used tape until part arrived.ĭefective ECU. Huge crack in air intake hose after the air flow sensor, causing lean mixture, low idle, bogging on acceleration. But problem not solved-engine light back on, same code.įront engine mount corroded and in need of replacement when sold. Ordered part online ($86) and took it to my local shop to install ($45). Replaced it with an after-market one and haven't had any trouble with it.Ĭheck engine light (P0037) and was told it was upstream O2 sensor. Went to the mechanic who diagnosed it as the catalytic converter. Had to be towed. Check engine light came on while driving on highway. Internal thermostat blew, lost a gasket, and the engine overheated. The pump body, bracket, and gasket were all replaced. The old bracket was rusted badly and could not be unbolted. The fuel pump body had cracked on the gas tank. Mechanic discovered that the transmission mount broke and needed replacement. Replaced timing belt, water pump, camshaft seal, O2 sensor (pre-cat), transmission fork and pivot bearing. Replaced thermostat and flushed coolant, no problems since. Replaced front motor mount in attempt to quell vibrations. Replaced two of four motor mounts due to age of rubber parts (cracking, losing effectiveness). Valve cover gasket replaced, light leaking noticed. found tears/holes in plastic air intake duct. Replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.Ĭheck engine light on. replaced water pump and timing belt.Ĭar overheating and check engine light on. I had a problem with the timing belt and the engine was damaged, so I just sold it to a junkyard for a couple hundred bucks. Replace front struts, front exhaust pipe, EGR valve, rear brake pads and rotors. Evap control canister is full of water - ordered parts.Įvap control canister and check valve replaced. Hose unplugged from throttle body - repaired. Pump would cut out when trying to fill gas tank. hit the gas, on gear, off gear - nothing. Starter engaged, lights came on but engine wouldn't start. Very unhappy with this design flaw.Ĭar wouldn't start after being parked and turned off for 15 minutes. All is well.ĮGR valve had to be repaired. greased gas pedal as it was sticking. changed coils, wires, plugsīad ignition pack(s) causing misfire. Thanks in advance.Changed coils, wires, plugs. Any input is appreciated, I haven’t heard of this issue so I am not sure what to expect in repairs or severity. Oil was changed out about 4 months ago and the spark plugs were swapped with Bosch iridium’s which were set to the correct spacing before installation. Seems to idle much smoother since I topped it off. Doesn’t seem to die off or have trouble turning over on startup and although I could say it has had a bit of a rough idle lately it burns oil and was about a quart low at the time. Some minor research hasn’t helped me understand the severity of the issue. P0117 - Engine coolant temperature circuit low inputĪnd again P0660 - intake manifold tuning valve control circuit/open - bank 1.Īnyone have any clue what’s going on or if it’s serious? P0660 - intake manifold tuning valve control circuit/open - bank 1 Check engine light came on solid before the error codes and is now off. Today the check engine light popped on so I had it read for the error codes this afternoon. I’ve got a Mazda Protege 02 around 166k miles. Forgive me if the post has errors as I’m new to the forum.
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